Fall pruning isn’t just about tidying up the garden. Cutting plants at the right time helps prevent disease, controls pests, and sets perennials up for a strong comeback in spring.
Here’s a complete guide to the plants you should cut back before winter sets in.
1. Daylilies (Hemerocallis)
When daylily flowers fade and the leaves begin yellowing, the plant no longer benefits from its foliage.
If left standing, rotting leaves can trap moisture and create disease problems around the crown. By trimming them to two or three inches above ground, you’re cleaning up the mess while protecting next year’s blooms.
This also reduces hiding spots for slugs and other pests. Once pruned, you can mulch lightly around the plant to insulate the root zone during winter.
2. Peonies
Once temperatures dip and frost blackens the foliage, it’s time to take action. Peony stems and leaves are notorious for holding botrytis and other diseases through winter.
Leaving them standing risks problems that reappear in spring. Trim stems down to within a couple inches of soil, then carefully dispose of the debris rather than composting it.
Adding a protective mulch layer helps safeguard the crown against deep freezes. This yearly maintenance ensures stronger peony growth and abundant blooms the following season, free of lingering fungal spores.
3. Hostas
As soon as hosta leaves yellow and fall limp, it’s a sign they’ve finished feeding the root system. Allowing them to linger leads to a mushy mess that becomes a breeding ground for slugs and snails.
Cutting leaves back to about two inches above the crown stops disease and keeps the area looking neat. If you’ve struggled with foliar nematodes, fall cleanup is especially important because pests overwinter in decaying leaves.
Once trimmed, a layer of mulch can help regulate soil temperature, protecting crowns from extreme freeze-thaw cycles common in winter.
4. Bee Balm (Monarda)
Once bee balm flowers fade, the foliage often develops powdery mildew, especially in damp climates. If left standing, those spores stick around until spring, spreading fast when new growth appears.
To avoid this cycle, cut stems down to just a few inches above the soil after the first frost. Clear away all debris rather than composting if mildew is present.
A clean cutback keeps the plant healthier and encourages vigorous regrowth. Mulching lightly helps protect the roots, but don’t bury the crown. Next year, you’ll be rewarded with lush growth and fewer disease problems.
5. Irises
After irises finish blooming, their leaves feed the rhizomes until frost arrives. Once the foliage yellows or browns, it’s no longer helping.
At this stage, it can harbor iris borers or fungal spores that overwinter. Cutting leaves back to about three inches above the rhizome eliminates hiding spots for pests and diseases. This also makes it easier to spot problems early next spring.
Dispose of the trimmings, especially if signs of borer damage are present. With debris cleared, mulch lightly to stabilize soil temperatures and protect rhizomes from deep freezes while avoiding too much moisture buildup.
6. Hardy Geraniums
By autumn, hardy geraniums often look tired, with foliage sprawling across beds or covered in powdery mildew.
Cutting them back to the ground in late fall improves airflow around the crown and allows the plant to focus on root health through the winter.
This cleanup also keeps garden beds tidy, reducing chances of moldy foliage affecting nearby plants.
In mild climates, fresh leaves may emerge quickly, adding some green back to borders even before winter sets in. When spring arrives, you’ll be rewarded with vigorous new growth that starts fresh and free of lingering disease.
7. Lavender
Lavender is best trimmed after flowering has finished. In fall, remove spent flower stalks and lightly shape the plant, being careful not to cut into old woody stems.
This keeps the plant rounded, reduces the risk of snow and ice splitting branches, and promotes healthy new growth next year.
Avoid hard pruning at this time of year, since fresh green shoots won’t have time to harden before winter.
Instead, aim for a light cut that encourages airflow and strength. When done annually, lavender stays compact and continues blooming heavily year after year.
8. Columbine (Aquilegia)
Columbine plants finish their flowering cycle in early summer, but their leaves often become discolored or insect-damaged by autumn.
Allowing these leaves to linger can invite pests like leaf miners or fungal diseases that overwinter in debris.
Cutting the plant back to the ground in fall removes these problems before they spread. Once pruned, apply mulch to insulate roots through winter, particularly for younger plants.
This cleanup ensures columbines come back fresh and strong in spring, ready to produce a reliable flush of colorful flowers without carrying over last season’s stress or pest issues.
9. Summer-Bearing Raspberries
After raspberries fruit in summer, those canes are finished and won’t produce again. Leaving them standing wastes space and invites disease into the patch.
By fall, identify and cut out the old canes, trimming them right down to the soil line. This creates room for new, vigorous canes that will provide next season’s harvest.
Thinning also improves airflow, helping to prevent fungal problems common in dense raspberry thickets. Remove any weak or spindly canes while you’re at it.
A well-pruned patch stays healthier and produces sweeter, larger berries the following summer.
10. Garden Phlox (Phlox paniculata)
Phlox is a garden favorite, but its lush foliage often becomes covered with powdery mildew late in the season.
If left standing, the spores overwinter in the debris and attack again in spring. Cutting phlox back to the ground in fall removes the problem before it spreads.
Dispose of trimmings instead of composting if mildew is present. This not only tidies up the border but also reduces disease risk for nearby perennials.
With clean soil around the base, you’ll encourage strong regrowth the following year and avoid dealing with another round of mildew headaches.
11. Canna Lilies
Canna lilies produce bold foliage and tropical-looking flowers but quickly turn slimy after the first frost.
Leaving that mess in place attracts pests and creates rot.
Cut the plants back to soil level once foliage has collapsed. In warm regions, leave rhizomes in the ground with a mulch covering to protect them from freeze-thaw cycles.
In colder climates, lift rhizomes, let them dry, and store them in a cool, dry location until spring. This routine ensures canna lilies return strong and vibrant without suffering winter damage.
12. Japanese Anemone
Japanese anemones add beauty to fall borders, often flowering right up until frost. Once the blooms fade and foliage browns, the leaves can become soggy and diseased.
Cutting stems down to a few inches above the ground prevents these issues and reduces hiding places for slugs.
A layer of mulch around the crown provides protection in colder areas, especially for younger plants. By clearing away old growth, you encourage healthier spring regrowth and avoid disease carryover.
These elegant perennials will reward you with another season of fresh, long-lasting flowers when properly pruned each fall.
13. Yews (Taxus)
Thesis (25 words):
Though yews are evergreen, pruning them in fall helps maintain shape and prevents branches from splaying under heavy snow.
Lightly trimming hedges in early autumn gives new growth enough time to harden before frost sets in. Avoid cutting too deep into old wood, as recovery can be slow.
Instead, taper the hedge slightly so the base remains wider than the top, allowing light to reach lower branches.
This prevents thinning and ensures a full, attractive shape all year long. Proper fall pruning keeps yews strong and visually appealing throughout the winter months.
14. Hollyhocks (Alcea)
After their tall spires fade, hollyhocks often show signs of rust or powdery mildew. Leaving them standing risks these diseases overwintering and spreading to other plants.
Once flowering finishes and leaves deteriorate, cut stems back to just a few inches above the soil. Clear away debris instead of composting if disease is visible.
A mulch covering helps shield roots from extreme cold, especially in areas with harsh winters. By cleaning up hollyhocks in fall, you protect your beds from disease and help the plant rebound stronger in spring with healthier leaves and taller blooms.
15. Ligularia
Ligularia thrives in damp, shady gardens but produces broad leaves that trap moisture. After the first frost, foliage quickly turns brown, soggy, and unmanageable.
Cutting it back to about two inches above the soil removes slug hiding spots and prevents rot from spreading into the crown.
This cleanup also keeps your garden neater, since decaying ligularia leaves can smother nearby perennials. Mulching around the base provides extra root protection through winter. C
ome spring, ligularia bounces back with strong, fresh foliage, ready to fill shady corners without carrying over problems from the previous year’s decline.
16. Elderberry (Sambucus)
Once elderberries drop their leaves, pruning becomes easier. Identify older, thick canes that produced fruit this year and remove about one-third of them down to the ground.
This rejuvenation encourages younger shoots that produce more berries next season. Cutting crossing or weak stems improves airflow, helping prevent disease in the dense canopy.
Fall is also a good time to shape the plant and keep it from becoming unwieldy. With proper annual pruning, elderberries stay manageable, productive, and healthy, delivering better harvests for years to come.
17. Garden Wallflowers (Erysimum)
After wallflowers finish flowering, the plant often stretches and looks ragged. Light trimming in fall restores shape and prevents it from becoming woody and sprawling.
Snip back spent flower stalks and cut lightly into green stems, avoiding hard pruning until spring. This maintains airflow around the plant and keeps the crown healthy through the cooler months.
A neat cutback also encourages stronger regrowth when warmer weather returns, allowing wallflowers to produce another flush of colorful blooms. This routine helps maintain their attractive form and ensures beds look neat year-round.
18. Perennial Sunflowers (Helianthus)
Sunflowers that return year after year often develop mildew or leaf spot late in the season.
- If foliage is diseased, cut all stems down to the ground in fall to stop spores from overwintering.
- In healthy patches, you may cut only the top third to reduce wind damage, leaving some stalks standing for wildlife habitat.
Either way, trimming helps tidy borders and keeps new spring growth healthier. Dispose of diseased foliage carefully instead of composting to stop the problem from spreading in the garden.
19. Savory (Satureja)
By autumn, savory often develops tough, woody stems that make it less useful for cooking.
Cutting the plant back by about half to two-thirds after flowering encourages new green shoots to grow next year. Removing excess growth improves airflow, lowers the risk of mildew, and prevents the plant from becoming too leggy.
In areas with cold winters, a mulch layer will help protect roots after trimming. Regular fall cutbacks ensure savory plants stay vigorous, flavorful, and attractive in the herb garden, providing reliable harvests year after year.
20. Rosemary
In milder climates, rosemary stays evergreen, but it can become tall and woody without care.
A light trim in fall, just after flowering ends, helps keep it compact and easier to harvest. Avoid cutting into older woody stems, which won’t regenerate. Instead, prune lightly into green growth. This reduces the risk of branches breaking under winter winds or snow.
Mulching the root area adds extra protection if temperatures dip. With consistent trimming, rosemary stays healthy and continues producing fragrant sprigs all year, without losing vigor to woody overgrowth.
21. True Lilies (Lilium species)
Lilies spend summer gathering energy in their bulbs through green leaves. By fall, those leaves turn yellow or brown after frost and are no longer useful.
At that point, cut stems back to soil level. Removing the dead material keeps beds tidy and stops fungal problems from overwintering. Dispose of any diseased foliage to reduce risks.
Adding a mulch layer helps protect bulbs from extreme temperature swings. This routine ensures stronger, healthier lily stalks and blooms in spring, without the setbacks caused by lingering rot or pest infestations.
22. Asters
Once asters finish flowering, stems dry out quickly and lose their appeal. Cutting them down to about four inches above the ground clears space for mulch protection.
This not only tidies the garden but also reduces the chance of fungal problems overwintering in the debris. A clean cutback ensures vigorous regrowth next season.
In colder climates, mulching after pruning insulates roots and protects crowns from deep frost damage.
Come spring, asters return with healthier growth and abundant flowers, without being weighed down by the old, diseased foliage left from the previous year.
23. Oregano & Marjoram
These Mediterranean herbs flourish in summer but decline rapidly in autumn. Once foliage turns brown or woody, trim plants back to soil level.
This prevents rotting stems from creating disease issues in your herb garden. A cutback also makes room for fresh green shoots, which often appear at the base before winter.
In colder regions, mulch the root area to shield it from frost. By pruning oregano and marjoram consistently in fall, you keep the plants vigorous, flavorful, and ready to produce lush new growth once warm weather returns.
24. Annuals (Various Species)
By definition, annuals won’t return after frost. Cutting them down once they’ve flowered and died keeps beds neat and removes potential pest shelters.
Roots can be left in place to break down naturally, improving soil structure. If plants showed disease, dispose of them rather than composting.
Cleaning out annuals in fall creates space for mulching or cover crops and ensures beds are ready for planting next spring. This yearly task may be simple, but it makes a big difference in garden health.